At this point, I have to figure out how to remove the electric PTO from the front of the old engine. The PTO's innermost sleeve seems to be seized onto the engine's output shaft. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and tried to work it off but it just wouldn't budge. The advice from the Cub Cadet forum was to use wedges and that was a great idea.My local tractor mechanic also suggested to screw the bolt back into the driveshaft's snout and tap it with a hammer to help it out.
Using a brass rod as I tapped on the bolt, the PTO clutch slowly worked itself off from the shaft with some help from the wedges. I put some Never-Seize on the new shaft so I won't have this problem next time.
I wasn't sure of the positions of the brass spacers since there didn't seem to be a need to have the flat ring behind the clutch. However, the clutch seemed to be too tight and I couldn't turn the driveshaft by hand anymore.
The assembly instructions indicate the ring goes at the bottom of the output shaft underneath the clutch and the cylindrical spacer goes between the clutch and the bolt. The clutch also binds in this arrangement.
After backing off the 4 bolts holding the clutch to the adapter plate and loosening up the snout bolt, there is about an 1/8" gap between the clutch and the adapter plate as indicated by the screwdriver in the bottom of the photo.
There is also a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the end of the shaft spacer and the bolt.
To take up the extra clearances, I tried adding a lock washer and flat washer under the clutch and a 3 flat washers between the cylindrical spacer and the bolt. This seemed to work fairly well to eliminate any binding in the clutch. Even though the bolt is on tight, there is just enough clearance for the cylindrical spacer to spin freely.
The clutch seemed to work fine with the old engine but seemed to either slip or bind on the new engine. As installed with the additional washers, the clutch seemed to chatter and smoke when engaged. The kit includes an 0.017" feeler gauge for adjusting the clutch. However, it seems to be to tight when adjusted for that gap.
I then backed off the clutch adjustment nuts and, with the engine running, retightened everything until the clutch just made contact. I then backed off the nuts until the clutch started to spin freely. When I engaged the PTO, I noticed some smoking from the clutch.
